Galapagos Islands Revisited

One of the fun things we did in the Galapagos Islands last summer was visiting the Post Office on Floreana. During the years when whalers stopped at the islands, they set up a barrel as a Post Office. Since voyages usually lasted several years before the men returned home, it was difficult to communicate with loved ones. So the sailors would leave letters in the barrel as they headed out into the Pacific. Sailors heading home would stop and sort through the letters for one to be delivered to their destination. Modern visitors have an easier time communicating, but it's fun to leave a post card in the barrel for another visitor to deliver later.

I left a post card for my friend Tavia at Creasey Mahan Nature Preserve, not knowing when or if it might be delivered to her. Last week a mystery caller wanted to know when she could come to see Tavia, but wouldn't say why. When she arrived, she wanted to have a camera ready to take a picture of Tavia's expression when she looked at the post card from our trip in August. Judi Petty actually lives in a subdivision very close to the Nature Preserve. I've always said Louisville is the biggest little town in the world. How true! Thanks Judi!

Ecuadoran Hummers

Cotopaxi Volcano

After seven wonderful days in the Galapagos, we stood in lines at the airports, and suffered through two different flight changes before arriving back in Quito, Ecuador. After one day of touring the city, we headed out of town to Guango Lodge on the other side of the mountains for some hummingbird viewing.  The weather was unusually clear, and we got great views of Cotopaxi Volcano. The guide told us there are 65 volcanoes in Ecuador, and 32 of them are active. I was surprised that so many of the buildings in Quito seemed to be made of simple cement blocks. When the big quake comes, there may not be many buildings left standing.

Driving at Risk

Of course, actually reaching the Lodge was a risky undertaking. The roads leading through the mountains wind up, down and almost in circles. The pass was about 13,500 feet above sea level, with chill winds making us wish we had warmer jackets on. The roads are in good condition, but only two lanes, not surprising considering the height of the mountains. When the grade steepened trucks and buses such as our own slowed down, but the cars were impatient. Despite the double yellow lines, and inability to see around the next corner, no one seemed deterred by ther danger. They just stepped on the gas and roared passed us. Actually, we did so ourselves one time when stuck behind a truck filled with cement blocks proceeding at about 5 mph! 

Collared Inca Hummingbird

The birds were worth it though! Kevin saw 37 species in all, including hummingbirds and others, but I didn't see half that many. Of course, hummigbirds fly really fast, as you know, and it was hard to find/identify them in the shadows. This black and white bird was probably the most common, a Collared Inca. Several species had white feathers around their eyes, making them look like big eyes from an Egyptian tomb. After a sip at the nectar, the little birds smack their beaks - or so it appears when their tongues dart in and out.

Chestnut-breasted Coronet

This Chestnut-breasted Coronet claimed one particular branch as his own. After sipping at the feeder, or chasing the other birds away, he returned to the same branch all day, basking in the sun, and watching to see what we were doing.

Buff-winged Starfontlet

The Buff-winged Starfrontlet was another aggressive bird, chasing the others away from the feeders.

Long-tailed Sylph

One of my favorites was this Long-tailed Sylph - just look at that tail!

Long-tailed Sylph

And his face glowed in irridescent green. You'd think he'd have trouble flying so fast with such a long tail.

Sword-billed Hummingbird

On the other hand, we wondered how in the world this Sword-billed Hummingbird got anything to drink at all from the feeders, given his long, long bill. The book says this is an uncommon bird. He can't land at the feeder...

Sword-billed Hummingbird

...and after feeding, he back away, then tips his bill up to make sure it all slides down. And, no, we didn't see any of them fighting duels with their bills!

Rio Guango

The Rio Guango rampages down from the heights, and believe it or not, some people kayak on it.  The problem is that there aren't any calm places to take a break after paddling for a long time.

Torrent Duck Female

Torent Duck Male

Who would expect to find ducks in a river like this? How about the aptly named Torrent Duck? They actually swam upstream against the torrent!  We felt like these ducks the next day, fighting upstream with immigration, customs and security at both the Quito and Houston airports the next day. Although we really thought we would miss our flight in Houston, we made it with seconds to spare, and arrived home safely. So this should be the end of the posts for our big trip. Adios South America!

Galapagos Plants

Opuntia Cactus Forest on Rabida

You would expect an island on the equator in the middle of the Pacific Ocean to be full of lush tropical vegetation. Yet the Galapagos surprises us in this aspect, just as it does with all the animals. There are only some 600 native species and subspecies of plants in the archipelago, compared to over 20,000 on mainland Ecuador only 600 miles away. 250 of these are endemic to Galapagos, having evolved from an original 110 species which arrived by natural means. The Adaptive Radiation found with finches and tortoises applies to plants as well.  If I failed to make a post here about the plants, my friend Tavia (a wildflower expert) would have my hide! Actually, I'm surprised at how many plant photos I have, especially since our guides didn't point out many plants unless we asked about them.

Vegetation Zones

Here's the biggest issue plants have on the Galapagos - lack of water. There are two seasons, the wet warm season, and the cool dry season, also called the garua. Prevailing winds from the southeast blow moisture in, but it only benefits one side of an island, and the higher the island is, the more moisture it receives on that side. The other side is in the "rain shadow" (Hawaii has the same problem.), and vegetation there must adapt to the arid conditions. The coastal areas, of course, require plants that are salt tolerant. Santa Cruz was the only island we visited with enough altitude for several of these vegetation zones. The other smaller lower islands were primarily in the arid zone only. Remember, many islands have no natural source of fresh water other than the rains and garua mists.

 Garua Mist 

 Misted Cactus Needles 

Almost every morning when we awoke, we saw heavy mist over the island outside our ship. Sometimes it remained till 10 or so before lifting. Plants have adapted to use whatever moisture is available during these months, until the rains come...if they do.

Palo Santo - ghost trees

Another plant adaptation is to cease making chlorophyll when there is insufficient moisture. These Palo Santo trees are also known as the "ghost forest" with their pale white color in the dry season. Actually, the bark on this tree is a darker color; the pale color comes from lichens growing on them. When it rains they will turn green, sprouting leaves and blossoms. The name "holy stick" comes from its habit of coming into leaf around Christmas time, and from its use as incense.

Sesuvium on South Plaza Island

Sesuvium also preserves its life by going dormant in the dry season, but it turns red and yellow instead of white, so the ground looks as if it's covered by autumn leaves.

Cactus Finch Nest

The Opuntia is a giant prickly pear cactus, and thus easily recognizable. There are six species and 14 varieties of opuntia. In the arid regions, it fills the role of trees and forests, since there isn't enough moisture for trees. On islands where the animals eat cactus, the needles are sharp, as expected, and it grows tall to evade being munched on. Rabida has no tortoises and the opuntia are low and sprawling. On islands with no cactus eaters though, the needles are soft and pliable.  Tortoises and iguanas eat the pads, while bird species eat the flowers, fruit, seeds and even extract water from the pads.

Candelabra Cactus - Santa Fe Island

Candelabra cactus can grow up to 24 feet high, with purple flowers and globular edible fruit. When it dies, a hollow woody skeleton is left behind.

Lava Cactus - Bartolome Island

But my favorite is the ultra-hardy and persistent lava cactus. Yes, just as the name indicates, they grow on bare black dry lava, where almost nothing else can exist. The young ends of each cactus are yellow, and they turn as grey-brown as they age.

Mollugo on Bartolome Island

This little mollugo plant grows (albeit slowly, I suppose) on the pahohoe lava fields of Bartolome.

Cutleaf Daisy on Floreana Island

Our guides did note that for some reason, most flowers are yellow, and the Galapagos sulphur butterfly is one of the pollinators. This cutleaf daisy is endemic to Floreana...

Galapagos Cotton

...while the Galapagos cotton is more widely seen. After it blooms, the seed pod actually opens to produce a white lint or cotton used by birds for nest linings!

Muyuyu - Yellow Cordia

The muyuyu, or yellow cordia, produces a white seed which early settlers used to make glue or starch, since it's very sticky.

Galapagos Tomato

Once again, we found a very familiar plant in an unfamiliar location. Yes, what looks like a tomato is really the Galapagos tomato, with small edible red fruit. There are also Galapagos species of passion flower, mistletoe, mesquite, guava, and aster.

Galapagos Lantana

Yes, there are non-native invasive plants, just as you would expect, and invasive insects like this wasp on a native lantana and fire ants.

Tequilia on Bartolome Island

It's easy for plants to grow where there is water. I admire the tough guys like this tequilia that hang on in a dry, rocky, barren, otherwise lifeless lava field like this. Way to go guys!

Galapagos from Downunder

In the Wetsuits

A normal day in the Galapagos included hiking in the morning, and snorkeling in the afternoon, although one day we swam twice!  The water was about 64 degrees Fahrenheit, so these full-body wetsuits (provided by the Queen Beatriz) felt really good once we got wet. Getting into them was a real challenge though! After making sure the thing was right-side-out to begin with, you wiggled into it - one leg at a time, then pull it up far enough for the hips, and then the arms. Only by tugging each spot an inch or so at a time could you get it up far enough for someone else to zip up the back.  I think we used an many calories getting them on as we did swimming!  Dick and I both brought our own masks, with enough magnification to see things - like getting reading glasses at the drugstore. If we go snorkeling again someplace cool like Key West, I might get a better pair, and I'll definitely get an underwater digital camera! Notice our guide Hanzel, in this photo. He had been a member of the Navy Seals, and when someone dropped a mask, he thought nothing of diving 30 feet down to retrieve it. 

Black Striped Salema Fish - Kevin

Our tour leader, Kevin Loughlin, a professional photographer, posted some of his photos, which I borrowed for this post. Sometimes we saw individual fish, and other times just the mass of a school of fish trying to remain anonymous.

Blue-chinned Parrotfish - Kevin

Heiroglyphic Hawkfish - Kevin

Golly, no matter I couldn't find this heiroglyphic fish on my own. It really blends in with the backgound.

Chocolate Chip Star

This is one of my favorites - the chocolate chip star!  I thought it looked like a giant cookie covered with chocolate chips!

Galapagos Black Turtle - Kevin

The bigger sea creatures were easier to see, of course, and you always hoped you could swim with sea turtles, sea lions, sharks, or penguins. Some days they came to play, and other days they didn't.

Pelican Feet from the Fish's Perspective - Kevin

White-tipped Reef Shark - Kevin

Curious Sea Lion - Kevin

  

Spotted Eagle Rays

Rays included sting rays, manta rays, and this eagle spotted ray. They looked like they were flying underwater. When we snorkeled from the beach, we always had to be careful not to step on any of them in the shallows.

Devil's Crown

I confess to wimping out on one trip. Devil's Crown is all that's left of a volcanic caldera sunken into the waves. That day the currents were fierce as we rode the panga out. Just slide over the side, and let the current carry you around, they said.

Rescue by Panga

The pangas always floated nearby when we snorkeled, thank goodness, and if you got tired, they would come when you waved. Of course, getting the fins off, and climbing up that small metal ladder could be a problem when you were tired to begin with. At Devil's Crown I stayed in the panga, and it didn't take long for others to wave us over for a pickup. I didn't feel so bad about being a wimp when they described the power of the current. At Gardner Bay I wasn't sure I could swim all the way out to the rock, but every time I came up, it was a little closer, and I actually made it!

Humpback Whale Breaching - Gardner Bay - Kevin

After a while at the Gardner Bay rock, the pangas came to collect us all.  "Get in! They saw a whale!" A whale - a much desired animal which had eluded us so far. The driver revved the engine to full, and we, along with every other panga from all the tour boats in the harbor, sped off. Once in a while someone would say they saw it blow, but it didn't take long to realize this whale had easily outdistanced us. For a while though we felt some of the excitement of the old whalers, only our weapons were digital cameras instead of harpoons!

Darwin's Finches

Male Medium Ground Finch - Rabida Island

All right, we've been home from the Galapagos for two weeks, and I've posted something here almost every day. But I have not written about the famous finches that inspired Darwin on the theory of evolution. But remember, I have trouble identifying Little Brown Jobs in any event, and they didn't all evolve from one species of birds!

Medium Ground Finch Female

In 1831, Charles Darwin was a 22-year-old who vomited in medical school classes, and began studying at Cambridge to enter the Church of England, when botanist John Henslow introduced him to the natural world. Henslow then introduced him to Captain Robert FitzRoy of HMS Beagle, and he joined on for the five year voyage as a companion and budding naturalist. Henslow also advised young Charles to read Charles Lyell's Principles of Geology, but told him 'on no account accept the views therein advocated.' Lyell described a world where land forms were constantly moving and changing. As Darwin observed volcanoes in various locations, he saw that the land was new in the Galapagos, and life had come later.

Medium Ground Finch Females - Rabida Island

Like all naturalists of the era, Darwin "collected" his samples, birds, lizard, plants, tortoises, amazed at their tameness. He noted, "I have specimens from four of the larger Islands...The specimens from Chatham and Albemarle Isd. appear to be the same; but the other two are different. In each Isd. each kind is exclusively found." It didn't take long for him to notice the changes from island to island for each species.

Click for larger version

In 1836 he and the Beagle returned home, and he gave his collected birds to ornithologist John Gould, who quickly concluded, "...that he was induced to regard them as constituting an entirely new group, containing 13 species, and appearing to be strictly confined to the Galapagos Islands...their principle peculiarity consisted in the bill presenting several distinct modifications of form." Unfortunately, Darwin had failed to mark the island of origin, having identified the different looking birds as other species familiar from home. Well, others in the crew had been more meticulous, so "natural selection" came into being with the help of finches, mockingbirds and tortoises. And the rest, as they say, is history, or evolution!

Male Ground Finch

I learned from Darwin, and carefully saved my photos according to the islands where they were taken. But to me, the finches are just more LBJs. They were not afraid of us, and filled the paths as we walked, blending with the color of the rocks. The males are black and the females brown with strips. So far, so good. I can tell them apart by gender. A flock of little ground finches flew almost between our legs to get the best seeds from the grass.

Female Medium Cactus Finch Santa Cruz

The part I couldn't get a feel for was the sizing.  Most finches are called Large, Medium and Small depending on the size of their beaks!  We saw this one actually eating cactus on Santa Cruz, and felt comfortable with it being a Cactus Finch. So there are Large, Medium and Small Ground Finches and Tree Finches. Rounding up the total is the Sharp-beaked Ground-Finch (only found on three islands we did not visit), the Vegetarian Finch (again, limited to just two islands), Mangrove Finch (only on Isabela), Woodpecker Finch and Warbler Finch. Just from their names, you get a feel for what they eat.

Male Large Cactus Finch Espanola

But Kevin identified this bird as a Large Cactus Finch.  Look at the beaks on each bird, and notice the difference.

Adaptive Radiation is the name for this process. Because the finches were isolated on each island, they had to change to survive in the conditions of that island. For finches, the change involved the size of the beak changing for the food available on the island.

Female Warbler Finch

 Did I ever mention how glad I am not to be an ornithologist in charge of determining the species of a newly found bird?